We leave behind the town of Esfahan, where we undoubtedly tasted the ancient charm mixed to the drive for modernity and innovation of its most young inhabitants who wanted to talk to us everywhere we were and making us feel sometimes a little bit embarrassed given their spontaneous friendliness which they showed us. We will never stop saying that the friendliness and hospitality of Iranians, have no equal.

On the way to Teheran we decide to take a detour which takes us to a hidden spot within the Karkas mountain range: Abyabeh which we were told to be a real jewel. The road which climbs up the mountains, however, generates disproportionate expectations to what we find later. Iran is changing even in its outmost remote places and the wind of change has also reached a far-off village like Abyaneh. Women still walk in their typical one thousand colors floral dresses, houses have the same ocher color which has been kept over the centuries, but the mass tourism which is invading this place will get to destroy what little has remained of its characteristics. Rather disappointed, we fix lunch in the shade of our vehicles and then drive towards Kashan. This town seems to have been one of the first areas of civilization during prehistoric times: there are [archeological] finds dating back to 8,000 years ago. Kashan also boasts another peculiarity. According to some historians, it would be the city of origin of the Three Kings of Orient who departed from here and went to Bethlehem to attend the Nativity. Something remarkable which makes it even more interesting, even conceptually. Unfortunately, when getting to our destination we find out that the areas where we could find the oldest finds are closed because of Ramadan, so we must be content with strolling around the city center where we can all the same “steal” some pics of the walls of an old stronghold and some “Historical houses”, or private residences, where we can admire sound examples of Persian architecture and which now have been turned into museums. While walking we are captured by a strong scent of roses: it comes from a small bazaar where some women are involved in the distillation of water so we buy some bottles: it is really cool and refreshing!

We get back on our journey and head towards Tehran. We reach the town when it’s already dark, nevertheless … or maybe fortunately because of it, the impact is rather positive: despite the extreme traffic, the streets are pleasant to cross because of the colored lights. Unfortunately, our arrival at the hotel is marked by a complication: Beta has run out of fuel, there are no gas stations around with good quality diesel fuel for our vehicles and spare bins are virtually empty… we managed once more to rub along. It’s almost ten pm when we check in at the hotel, we are tired enough: a quick dinner and we all go to bed.